All Over the City!

During this past week, I only had a few classes and meetings with the program, because orientation is just about over, and real classes are going to get started now. So, without much I HAD to do, I had plenty of time to see much more of the city. For several days, my friend Anshu, from DU theatre department was in BsAs, so we visited many tourist-y sights, and then I saw many more places on my own.

Here is Avenida 9 de Julio (the widest Avenue in the world) that

I mentioned earlier, which I have to cross quite often. The traffic here zips by, and the drivers do not wait for pedestrians. If there is a car coming, you better get out of the way! As you can see from the bottom of the photo, there are no shortage of taxis here, and though I usually take the bus or the subte (because they each cost about 30 cents a ride) if it is too late, to far, or I'm in a questionable neighborhood, I can always take a taxi home (which still rarely costs more than $5.

Though it looks strangely like the Washington Monument, this is the Obelisco, which is located in the huge intersection of Avenida 9 de Julio and Corrientes (which is the "Broadway" of BsAs). This giant landmark helps me to orient myself sometimes, when I feel a little out of sorts. Sometimes when I step out of a subte or something, it takes me a moment to realize exactly where this exit took me, and things like the Obelisco help. It also represents 4 big events in the history of BsAs. If you're interested... look it up!

These are some of the buildings in the neighborhood of La Boca. There is a very touristy area called la Caminito, where you

can hardly go a step without someone giving you a flyer and telling you that their restaurant is the best in the city. The buildings are neat, tin walls painted in vivid colors, but I was so overwhelmed by the ridiculous tango souvenirs, and being hassled by merchants, that much of the charm was lost for me. However, we did see this guy, and I don't know what he was all about, but it sure was silly!

The is one tiny row in a giant labyrinth of

ornate mausoleums in the Recoleta cemetery. Row after row, some spectacular and beautiful, while others are decrepit and forgotten. It seems that anyone who was anyone has a family plot in here, including Eva Perón (Evita) and her family La Familia Duarte. Though there are tourists all over this cemetery,

you can usually follow the crowd through the maze, straight to Evita's plot. I've been to this cemetery twice now, and I imagine I will be spending much more time here. I can't even explain how interesting (and a tad bit eerie) it is. Here is the door of one mausoleum, with broken glass, so you can really see right inside.

This Sunday, I spent the day wandering aimlessly, and stumbled upon some really neat things. First, I went to Parque Lezama, a park where there were locals selling things like tools and cheap clothes (similar to the Flea Market in NM), then as I moved further into the park, there were families everywhere (Sunday was El día de los Niños) some playing fútbol, and others eating at the picnic tables, and others just enjoying the day. Then I came across several tables, crowded with men entertained by a friendly game of chess.

Also in the park was a Brazilian Capoeira group. Capoeira is a sort of mix between dance and martial arts, and is often accompanied by musicians. The group didn't want people to take pictures, but since I have a super zoom on my camera, I snuck a photo from across the park!

After I finally left the park, I ran into some sort of parade. I have no idea what it was for, but there were small bonfires surrounded by drums, tons of drummers and dancers in the street, flags in the air, and a lot of happy people. As I continued down the street past the parade, on my journey with no known destination, I came across a band playing on

the street, and I absolutely loved them. I was going to drop a few pesos into their suitcase, but then when I saw a girl selling their CDs, I thought that was an even better way to support them (and I got more out of it too!) I stood and watched for quite some time, and got a flyer about shows this week, and if I have the chance, I'll try and catch them again!

Well, this blogging can take a lot out of a person, so I'm all done for the day. Tomorrow I start some of my real classes, so hopefully my blogging won't become even more infrequent. Chau!

Settling in to Big City Living

This weekend I had a great time doing some more exploring, and taking in some of the art that Buenos Aires has to offer. On Thursday night, I went to the play that I mentioned last time. It was pretty good, but I know I missed a lot of things because of the language. They spoke very very fast, and over each other, and I'm sure they used some slang and other words that I've never heard, but despite all that, I got the gist, and usually knew what was going on.

On Friday night, I went with a group of friends on an Art Walk. They have a very similar thing in Denver, where on one night all the galleries open, and there was some Champagne, and many of the artists were in the gallery. We only went to a few galleries because it seemed like many weren't open. Certain places in the city are still closed down because of Gripe 'A' (swine flu), so we hope to venture out to this again sometime.

On Saturday, I went exploring the city by myself. I went to Argentina's version of the White House, which for them is the Pink House (Casa Rosada). When I took out my camera to take a photos, the screen flashed "Battery Exhausted", so still I have no pictures to share. I walked across the widest avenue in the world, Avenida 9 de Julio, which included either 3 or 4 medians. I only got about half way across, then I had to wait for the traffic lights to cycle through again so I could finish. Eventually, I stopped for lunch in the theatre district, where i ate pumpkin ravioli, garlic butter and bread, a glass of wine, and limoncello for all under US$5. I could have had dessert, a side dish, and meat instead of pasta for another US$1.50, but it didn't seem necessary.

I went home, quickly changed my clothes, then hopped in taxi for my very first Tango lesson. It moved very quickly, and sometimes I didn't understand the words, when they would explain something, but everyone was very helpful, and I hope to make this a regular event. I stayed for a short time after the lesson, and enjoyed some coffee, while I watched the advanced dancers practice. It was very inspiring.

Today, I enjoyed a rather tourist-y day in Buenos Aires. I met some friends at the famous and very beautiful cemetery where Eva Perón and other famous Argentines are buried. It is a labyrinth of tombs, where stray cats weaving around or basking in the sun.

In the same plaza as the cemetery, there was also a huge artisan market that takes place every sunday. There were so many wonderful things, and I did buy a few, but I continually reminded myself that I'll be here for 4 1/2 for months, so I'm sure I'll see a million beautiful things. At the artisan market, there was a huge puppet show going on, people doing acrobatics/trapeze work from the trees, I saw a mime, and some hilarious clowns. As the weather warms up, this will start to be more common in the streets, and I can't wait!

That about wraps up the weekend, but I'll write again soon!

Getting in the swing of things

I know you've been sitting on the edge of your seats, waiting for this update.  Since I've been here, I have spent a lot of time getting adjusted to a change in schedule, and getting back in to the swing of school.  Argentines are night owls (to say the least)!  We don't usually eat dinner until 9:30 at the earliest, and often 10 or 10:30 pm.  A side note-- they operate on a 24 hour clock, so we usually eat at about 22:00.  Even though we stay up late, we still get up bright and early.  I have to be to class at 9:00, but I have to get up with plenty of time to get ready, make coffee and breakfast (People don't eat on the run here.  I sit and enjoy my breakfast every morning), then I have to take either the bus or the Subte (stands for Subterreano, or their Subway) which takes at least a half an hour.  I'm used to rolling out of bed at 3:45 in the morning, barely opening my eyes, throwing on some clothes, and going to work.  When in Rome......

This week in orientation, we have been taking Spanish classes, learning about the city of Buenos Aires, the public transportation, the dangerous area of town, learning about families here, students, classes, safety, history of Argentina, and anything else they can pack in.  Everything we do here is in spanish-- every lecture, every conversation, spanish class-- EVERYTHING.  I still don't speak in Spanish a whole, except to my host mother, and her friends  (by the way, her friend's name I Beba).  My level of understanding is skyrocketing, but I still have a lot of work to do with my speaking.  Every night (since real classes with homework haven't started yet) I try to study my Spanish grammar.  I haven't taken a grammar class since I was in school the first time, and I'm a little rusty, so I'm putting in some extra time.

This week, I also got sick.  I don't have a fever, so it is probably not the Swine Flu (though at least one student and maybe two in our program do have Swine Flu), but I've had a bad cough, and congestion in my chest.  Judith is wonderful, and is taking good care of me.  She makes sure that I take this gross medicine syrup, eat soup and drink tea, and bundle up whenever I go out.  It is the middle of winter here, and though it wasn't nearly as cold when I was monitoring the weather from Denver, it sure is cold now!  Luckily I love scarves so much, because I brought all sorts.  Besides the cold, the air is pretty polluted here (I doubt they have emissions regulations like we do) and people are always smoking everywhere.  This could also be part of the cause for my irritated respiratory system.  I imagine I'll be all better in the next few days.

After class each day, I walk home (it is about a 45 minute walk home without stops), and sometimes I stop at shops, or take a detour through another neighborhood.  I haven't explored many of the tourist sights yet, but I have plans for the weekend.  Throughout the semester, the program offers group activities for some of the students, and tomorrow (Thursday) is the first one.  There are approximately 120 American students in this program, and there were 9 spots to go see a show in a theatre.  There was an online registration that opened this morning at 11, and only the first 9 to register, get to go.  I bet you can't guess who the first person to register was!  Well, I'll save you the trouble.  It was me!  Then, the next 3 to register were friends of mine, and then in moments, it was full.  So tomorrow, I'm going to go see the play Fat Pig by American playwright Neil LaBute (Lucky, eh Jeanette?!).  Obviously, it is translated into spanish.

After I see it, I'll report back!  However, for now, I must go to do my nightly Spanish grammar studying.  I thought I had better update this thing before my mom started a riot or something :)

Until next time.  Hasta Luego!  And remember, you can leave me comments or questions on here, if you're just dying to know something!  I'll get some more photos up soon, particularly photos of Judith and Beba!

Bienvenidos/as a Buenos Aires

I arrived safely in Buenos Aires (BsAs) yesterday, and made it through my first day of orientation today.  Now that I'm in this for keeps, here comes the blog!  Who knows how often I will blog, but I'll do the best I can to keep you updated!

Everyone wants to know where I live, and how my host family is.  Well I live in a nice area that my cab driver called El Barrio Norte, and one map showed it as Recoleta, and another as Alto Palermo.  So, I think I live in one of those places.  Don't quote me on that!  I live in an apartment with a wonderful 82-year-old woman Señora Judith.  My Señora is so sweet, and so full of energy.  I would have guessed late 60s.  Her friend, whose name I can't seem to catch (give me a break, Argentines have a very different accent, and these ladies are in their 80s) seems to spend a lot of time with Señora Judith.  Judith is so sweet, and her friend is pretty sassy and hilarious.  At dinner tonight, we had cuadríl, a type of beef, and I said I was full, and there was one piece left.  Señora Judith asked if I wanted it, and I replied that I was full, and her friend said <<¡Come!>>, which is the command form for "Eat!".  So, I ate it.  Then she laughed and said, now I have TWO mothers here.

Here is my bedroom.  Nora made my bed today (after I already did it).  She cleans the house once a week.  

Here's the living room.  Right out those curtains is a balcony, that is quite nice.

The kitchen, obviamente.

The washer (no dryer included)

Oh, that must be the key to the treasure chest!  Actually the front door.